Sidestand Switch Connections

Neutral Switch Connections

Oil Pressure Switch Connections*

*: Engine lubrication system is in good condition.

 

Water Temperature Sensor Inspection

• Remove the water temperature sensor (see Removal/In- stallation in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter).

• Suspend the sensor [A] in a container of coolant so that

the temperature-sensing projection [C] and threaded por-

tion [C] are submerged.

• Suspend an accurate thermometer [B] with temperature

-sensing projection located in almost the same depth.

NOTE

○The sensor and thermometer must not touch the con-

tainer side or bottom.

• Place the container over a source of heat and gradu- ally raise the temperature of the coolant while stirring the

coolant gently.

• Using the hand tester, measure the internal resistance of the sensor.

If the hand tester does not show the specified values, re- place the sensor.

Water Temperature Sensor Resistance

Temperature	Resistance (kΩ)
–20°C (–4°F)	*18.80 ±2.37
0°C (32°F)	*(about 6.544)
40°C (104°F)	1.136 ±0.095
100°C (212°F)	0.1553 ±0.0070

*: Reference Information

Speed Sensor Removal

• Remove the left center fairing (see Center Fairing Re- moval in the Frame chapter).

• Disconnect the speed sensor lead connector [A].

• Remove the engine sprocket cover (see Engine Sprocket

Removal in the Final Drive chapter).

 

 

• Remove: Bolt [A]

Speed Sensor [B]

 

 

Speed Sensor Installation

• Installation is the reverse of removal.

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the sensor bolt,

and tighten it.

Torque - Speed Sensor Bolt: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69 in·lb)

 

Speed Sensor Inspection

• Remove the speed sensor (see Speed Sensor Removal).

• Connect the speed sensor connector [A] with the battery

[B], 10 kΩ resistor [C] and hand tester [D] as shown.

• Set the tester to the DC 25 V range.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

• Trace [A] each side of the speed sensor surface with the screw driver.

○Then the tester indicator should flick [B].

If the tester indicator does not flick, replace the speed

sensor.

 

 

Oxygen Sensor Removal (Europe Models)

• Remove:

Left Lower Fairing (see Lower Fairing Removal in the

Frame chapter)

• Disconnect the oxygen sensor lead connector [A].

 

• Remove the oxygen sensor [A].

 

 

CAUTION

Never drop the oxygen sensor [A], especially on a hard surface. Such a shock to the unit can damage it. Do not touch the sensing part [B] and filter holes [C] of the sensor to prevent oil contact. Oil contami- nation from hands can reduce sensor performance.

Oxygen Sensor Installation (Europe Models)

• Tighten:

Torque - Oxygen Sensor: 44.1 N·m (4.50 kgf·m, 32.5 ft·lb)

• Run the oxygen sensor lead correctly (see Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).

 

 

Oxygen Sensor Inspection (Europe Models)

• Refer to the Oxygen Sensor Inspection in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter.

Fuel Reserve Switch Inspection

• Fill the fuel tank with fuel.

• Close the fuel tank cap surely.

• Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel

System (DFI) chapter).

• Connect the test light [A] (12 V 3.4 W bulb a socket with leads) and the 12 V battery [B] to the fuel pump connector

[C].

Connections:

Battery (+) → 12 V 3.4 W Bulb (One Side)

12 V 3.4 W Bulb (Other Side) → BL Lead Terminal Battery (–) → BK Lead Terminal

If the test light turn on, the reserve switch is defective. Replace the fuel level sensor.

• Remove the fuel pump (see Fuel Pump Removal in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter).

• Connect the test light (12 V 3.4 W bulb in a socket with

leads) and the 12 V battery to the fuel pump connector as

shown.

12 V Battery [A] Test Light [B]

Fuel Pump Connector [C] Fuel Reserve Switch [D]

If the test light doesn’t light, replace the fuel pump.

NOTE

○It may take a long time to turn on the test light in case

that the fuel reserve switch is inspected just after the

fuel pump is removed. Leave the fuel reserve switch with leads for inspection connected for few minutes.

 

The relay box [A] has relays and diodes. The relays and diodes can not be removed.

 

Relay Box Removal

• Remove:

Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel System

(DFI) chapter)

• Take out the relay box [A] and disconnect the connectors [B].

 

Relay Circuit Inspection

• Remove the relay box (see Relay Box Removal).

• Check conductivity of the following numbered terminals

by connecting the hand tester and one 12 V battery to the

relay box as shown (see Relay Box Internal Circuit in this section).

If the tester does not read as specified, replace the relay box.

 

Relay Circuit Inspection (with the battery disconnected)

	Tester Connection	Tester Reading (Ω)
Headlight Relay	1-3	∞
ECU Main Relay	7-6	∞
4-5	Not ∞*
Fuel Pump Relay	7-8	∞
9-10	Not ∞*
Starter Circuit Relay	11-16	∞
11-12	∞
Fan Relay	17-20	∞
18-19	Not ∞*

*: The actual reading varies with the hand tester used.

 

 

Relay Box

Relay Circuit Inspection (with the battery connected)

	Battery Connection (+) (–)	Tester Connection	Tester Reading (Ω)
ECU Main Relay	2-11	1-3
4-5	7-6
Fuel Pump Relay	9-10	7-8
Fan Relay	18-19	17-20

	Battery Connection (+) (–)	Tester Connection DC 25 V Range	Tester Reading (V)
Starter Circuit Relay	16-12	11-12	Battery Voltage

(+): Apply positive lead. (–): Apply negative lead.

 

Diode Circuit Inspection

• Remove the relay box (see Relay Box Removal).

• Check conductivity of the following pairs of terminals (see

Relay Box Internal Circuit in this section).

Tester Connection

1-11, 2-11, 12-13, 12-15, 12-16, 13-14, 13-15

Diode Circuit Inspection

The resistance should be low in one direction and more than ten times as much in the other direction. If any diode shows low or high in both directions, the diode is defective and the relay box must be replaced.

NOTE

○The actual meter reading varies with the meter or tester

used and the individual diodes, but generally speaking,

the lower reading should be from zero to one half the scale.

 

Relay Box Internal Circuit

A: Headlight Relay B: ECU Main Relay C: Fuel Pump Relay

D: Starter Circuit Relay E: Fan Relay

 

 

Fuse

30 A Main Fuse Removal

• Remove:

Left Side Cover (see Side Cover Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Cover (see Starter Relay Inspection) Connector [A]

• Pull out the main fuse [B] from the starter relay with needle

nose pliers.

 

Fuse Box Fuse Removal

• Remove the seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chap- ter).

• Unlock the hook [A] to lift up the lid [B].

 

 

• Pull the fuses [A] straight out of the fuse box with needle nose pliers.

 

15 A ECU Fuse Removal

• Remove:

Seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chapter)

• Unlock the hook [A] to pull the lid [B].

 

 

• Pull out the ECU fuse [A] from the fuse box.

 

 

Fuse

Fuse Installation

• If a fuse fails during operation, inspect the electrical sys- tem to determine the cause, and then replace it with a

new fuse of proper amperage.

• Install the fuse box fuses on the original position as spec- ified on the lid.

Fuse Inspection

• Remove the fuse (see 30 A Main/Fuse Box /15 A ECU Fuse Removal).

• Inspect the fuse element.

If it is blown out, replace the fuse. Before replacing a

blown fuse, always check the amperage in the affected circuit. If the amperage is equal to or greater than the fuse rating, check the wiring and related components for a short circuit.

Housing [A]

CAUTION

When replacing a fuse, be sure the new fuse matches the specified fuse rating for that circuit. Installation of a fuse with a higher rating may cause damage to wiring and components.

Fuse Element [B] Terminals [C] Blown Element [D]

 

 

 

 

 

Appendix

Table of Contents

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing.............................................................................................. 17-2

Troubleshooting Guide................................................................................................................... 17-46

 

 

17

 

 

1. Clamp (From the on sequentially, through the ignition switch lead, left switch housing lead and main harness.)

2. Left Switch Housing Lead Connector

3. Clamp (Insert the clamp from air cleaner side.)

4. Air Switching Valve Lead Connector

5. Main Harness

6. Clamp

7. Clamp (Insert the clamp in the frame.)

8. Clamp (Insert the clamp in the frame.)

9. Clamp

10. Inlet Temperature Sensor Lead Connector

11. Clamp (Insert the clamp from air cleaner side.)

12. Ignition Switch Lead Connector

13. Clamp (Clamp the left switch housing lead (main harness side), ignition switch lead (main har- ness side) and air switching valve lead.)

14. Through the air switching valve lead on the left switch housing lead.

 

 

 

 

1. Relay Box

2. Main Harness

3. Clamp (Insert the clamp in the bracket.)

4. Battery Negative Cable

5. Battery Positive Cable

6. ECU Connectors

7. Clamp

8. Clamp

9. Tail Light Connector

10. License Plate Light Connector

11. Rear Left Turn Signal Light Connector

12. Rear Right Turn Signal Light Connector

13. Clamp (Insert the clamp in the rear fender rear.)

14. Frame Ground

15. Clamp

16. Water-proof Joint

17. Clamp

18. Fuse Box

19. Clamp

20. Clamp

21. Band

22. Band

23. Clamp

24. To the Vehicle-down Sensor, Crankshaft Sensor and Rear Brake Switch

25. Clamp (Clamp the regulator/rectifier lead, and insert the clamp in the rear fender front.)

26. Battery Negative Lead Connector

27. Fuel Pump Lead

28. Starter Motor Cable

29. To Starter Relay

30. Regulator/Rectifier Lead

31. View A

 

 

EX650B Models

 

1. To Main Harness

2. Battery Positive Cable

3. ABS Kawasaki Self-diagnosis System Connector (Insert the connector to the bracket.)

4. ABS Motor Relay Fuse

5. ABS Solenoid Valve Relay Fuse

 

 

 

 

1. Inlet Pressure Sensor

2. Turn Signal Relay

3. Air Cleaner Drain Tube

4. From this side, through the fuel tank drain tube, corrugated tube and air cleaner drain tube between chain guide and engine.

5. To the Water Temperature Sensor

6. Oxygen Sensor Lead Connector

7. Clamp (Through the sidestand switch lead and oxygen sensor lead in the clamp.)

8. Oxygen Sensor Lead

9. Clamp (Through the drain hose in the clamp.)

10. Drain Hose

11. Sidestand Switch Lead

12. Corrugated Tube

13. Alternator Lead Connector

14. Sidestand Switch Lead Connector

15. Speed Sensor Lead Connector

16. Main Throttle Sensor Lead Connector

17. Tube

18. Neutral Switch Lead

19. Drain Hose (Through the drain hose between main harness and air cleaner.)

20. Clamp (Insert the clamp in the cross pipe.)

 

 

 

 

1. Clamp (Through the right switch housing lead, and insert the clamp in the frame.)

2. Clutch Cable

3. Throttle Cables

4. Clamp

5. Right Switch Housing Lead

6. Clamp (Through the clutch cable in the clamp.)

7. Frame (Through the coolant hose in the frame.)

8. Coolant Hose

9. Clamp

 

 

 

 

1. Brake Hose

2. Clutch Cable

3. Throttle Cables

4. Clamp

5. Right Switch Housing Lead

6. Clamp (Through the clutch cable in the clamp.)

7. Frame (Through the coolant hose in the frame.)

8. Coolant Hose

9. Clamp

10. Clamp (Clamp the right switch housing lead connector.)

11. Bracket

12. Throttle Cables

13. Through the brake hose at the right side of the throttle cables.

 

 

1. Right Switch Housing Lead

2. Throttle Cable (Decelerator)

3. Throttle Cable (Accelerator)

4. Through the brake hose at the right side of the throttle cables.

 

 

 

 

1. Crankshaft Sensor Lead Connector

2. Clamp (Insert the clamp in the bracket.)

 

 

 

 

1. Tail Light Connector

2. License Plate Light Connector

3. Rear Right Turn Signal Light Connector

4. Rear Left Turn Signal Light Connector

5. Clamp (Insert the clamp in the rear fender rear.)

6. Clamp (Insert the clamp in the rear fender rear.)

7. Diagnosis Connector

8. Clamp (Insert the clamp in the rear fender front.)

9. Rear Brake Light Switch Lead

10. Band (Clamp the main harness with the frame.)

11. Band

12. ABS Kawasaki Self-diagnosis System Connector (EX650B Models)

 

 

 

 

5. Brake Hose

6. Clamp

7. Ignition Switch Lead

8. Main Harness

9. Left Switch Housing Lead

10. Clutch Cable

11. Clamp (Insert the clamp to the inner fairing.)

12. Clamp

13. Clamp

14. Clamp (Clamp the left switch housing lead and ignition switch lead.) 15. 20 mm (0.79 in.)

16. 50 mm (1.97 in.)

 

 

EX650B Models

5. Brake Hose (Through the brake hose at the right side of the throttle cables.)

6. Clamp

7. Ignition Switch Lead

8. Main Harness

9. Left Switch Housing Lead

10. Clutch Cable

11. Clamp (Insert the clamp to the inner fairing.)

12. Clamp

13. Clamp

14. Front Wheel Rotation Sensor Lead

15. Front

16. Baffle Plate

17. Clamp (Insert the clamp to the baffle plate.)

18. Front Wheel Rotation Sensor Lead Connector

19. Clamp (Clamp the left switch housing lead and ignition switch lead.) 20. 20 mm (0.79 in.)

21. 50 mm (1.97 in.)

 

 

 

 

1. Clamp

2. Clamp

3. Clamp

4. Clamp (Clamp the subthrottle sensor lead and subthrottle valve actuator lead to the delivery pipe.)

5. Ground Lead

6. Clamp

7. Subthrottle Sensor Lead Connector

8. Subthrottle Valve Actuator Lead Connector

9. Clamp (Clamp the harness.)

10. Clamp 11. Clamp

12. Stick Coil Lead Connector

13. Clamp (Clamp the stick coil lead.)

14. Clamp (Push the subthrottle valve actuator lead, and clamp the subthrottle sensor lead and subthrottle valve actuator lead to the delivery pipe.)

 

 

 

 

1. Regulator/Rectifier Lead

2. Clamp (Insert the clamp in the frame.)

3. Rear Brake Light Switch Lead Connector

4. Through the rear brake light switch lead and vehicle-down sensor lead from the front side of the rear shockabsorber installation part.

5. Through the regulator/rectifier lead to the front opening of the rear fender front.

6. Vehicle-down Sensor Lead

7. Fuel Pump Lead Connector

8. Through the fuel pump lead to the hook of the rear fender front (Routing is done so that there is no slack.).

9. Through the fuel pump lead to the slit of the cover.

 

 

 

 

1. ABS Hydraulic Unit Lead (ECU) (Through the lead to the forward of frame cross pipe.)

2. ABS Hydraulic Unit

3. Through the rear wheel rotation sensor lead upper the starter motor cable and engine ground cable.

4. Through the regulator/rectifier lead in the clamp.

5. Through the rear wheel rotation sensor lead upper the brake hose.

6. Rear Wheel Rotation Sensor Lead

7. Through the regulator/rectifier lead under the brake fluid reservoir hose.

8. Through the vehicle-down sensor lead under the brake hose.

9. Clamp (Clamp the brake hose and rear wheel rotation sensor lead.)

10. Through the rear wheel rotation sensor lead upper the rear brake light switch lead.

11. Through the rear wheel rotation sensor lead under the brake hose.

 

 

1. Front Wheel Rotation Sensor Lead

2. Ignition Switch Lead

3. Left Switch Housing Lead

4. Clamp (Clamp the front wheel rotation sensor lead.)

5. Main Harness

6. Clamp (Clamp the front wheel rotation sensor lead.)

 

 

 

 

1. To Meter Unit

2. Clamp

3. To Front Right Turn Signal Light Lead

4. Left Switch Housing Lead

5. Ignition Switch Lead

6. Main Harness

7. To Front Left Turn Signal Light Lead

 

 

 

 

1. Clamp

2. Clamp (Insert the clamp to the inner fairing.)

3. Clamp (Insert the clamp to the upper fairing bracket.)

 

 

California Model

 

1. Through the hose between main harness and air cleaner housing.

2. To Fuel Tank (Red)

3. To Fuel Tank (Blue)

4. Left Side View

5. Through the hose between main harness and air cleaner housing.

6. Front

7. Lower Side View

 

 

 

 

 

3. Clamp

4. Clamp

 

 

EX650B Models

 

 

 

 

 

 

EX650B Models

4. Clamp

 

 

NOTE

○Refer to the Fuel System chapter for most

of DFI trouble shooting guide.

○This is not an exhaustive list, giving every

possible cause for each problem listed. It

is meant simply as a rough guide to assist the troubleshooting for some of the more common difficulties.

Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting Difficulty:

Starter motor not rotating:

Starter lockout switch or neutral switch trou- ble

Starter motor trouble Battery voltage low

Starter relay not contacting or operating Starter button not contacting

Wiring open or shorted Ignition switch trouble Engine stop switch trouble Fuse blown

Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t turn over:

Starter clutch trouble

Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off

Engine won’t turn over:

Valve seizure Valve lifter seizure

Cylinder, piston seizure Crankshaft seizure

Connecting rod small end seizure Connecting rod big end seizure Transmission gear or bearing seizure Camshaft seizure

Starter idle gear seizure

No fuel flow:

No fuel in tank Fuel pump trouble

Fuel tank air vent obstructed Fuel filter clogged

Fuel line clogged

Engine flooded:

Clean spark plug and adjust plug gap Starting technique faulty

(When flooded, do not crank the engine with the throttle fully opened. This promotes engine flood because more fuel is supplied automatically by DFI.)

No spark; spark weak:

Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off Ignition switch not ON

Engine stop switch turned OFF

Clutch lever not pulled in or gear not in neu- tral

Battery voltage low

Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap malad- justed

Stick coil shorted or not in good contact Stick coil trouble

Spark plug incorrect

IC igniter in ECU trouble

Neutral, starter lockout, or side stand switch trouble

Crankshaft sensor trouble

Ignition switch or engine stop switch shorted

Wiring shorted or open Fuse blown

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Bypass screw and/or idle adjusting screw maladjusted

Air passage clogged

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or miss- ing

Compression Low:

Spark plug loose

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down

No valve clearance Cylinder, piston worn

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket damaged Cylinder head warped

Valve spring broken or weak

Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)

 

Poor Running at Low Speed:

Spark weak:

Battery voltage low

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Stick coil wiring trouble

Stick coil not in good contact Spark plug incorrect

IC igniter in ECU trouble Crankshaft sensor trouble Stick coil trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect: Bypass screw maladjusted Air passage clogged

Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged Pilot passage clogged

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or miss- ing

Fuel tank air vent obstructed Fuel pump trouble

Throttle body assy holder loose Air cleaner duct loose

 

 

Compression low:

Spark plug loose

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down

No valve clearance Cylinder, piston worn

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Cylinder head warped

Cylinder head gasket damaged Valve spring broken or weak

Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)

Other:

IC igniter in ECU trouble

Throttle body assy not synchronizing Engine oil viscosity too high

Drive train trouble Brake dragging

Air suction valve trouble Air switching valve trouble Engine overheating Clutch slipping

 

Poor Running or No Power at High Speed:

Firing incorrect:

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Stick coil wiring trouble

Stick coil not in good contact Spark plug incorrect Camshaft position trouble

IC igniter in ECU trouble Crankshaft sensor trouble Stick coil trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or miss- ing

Air cleaner O-ring damaged Air cleaner duct loose

Water or foreign matter in fuel Throttle body assy holder loose Fuel to injector insufficient (DFI) Fuel tank air vent obstructed Fuel line clogged

Fuel pump trouble

Compression low:

Spark plug loose

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down

No valve clearance Cylinder, piston worn

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

Cylinder head gasket damaged Cylinder head warped

Valve spring broken or weak

Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)

Knocking:

Carbon built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quality or incorrect

Spark plug incorrect

IC igniter in ECU trouble Crankshaft sensor trouble

Miscellaneous:

Throttle valve won’t fully open Brake dragging

Clutch slipping Engine overheating

Engine oil level too high Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble

Air suction valve trouble Air switching valve trouble

Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler overheating (KLEEN)

 

Overheating:

Firing incorrect:

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug incorrect

IC igniter in ECU trouble

Muffler overheating:

For KLEEN, do not run the engine even if with only one cylinder misfiring or poor running (Request the nearest service fa- cility to correct it)

For KLEEN, do not push-start with a dead battery (Connect another full-charged battery with jumper cables, and start the engine using the electric starter)

For KLEEN, do not start the engine under misfire due to spark plug fouling or poor connection of the stick coil

For KLEEN, do not coast the motorcycle with the ignition switch off (Turn the igni- tion switch ON and run the engine)

IC igniter in ECU trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect: Throttle body assy holder loose Air cleaner duct loose

Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing Air cleaner O-ring damaged

Air cleaner clogged

Compression high:

Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Engine load faulty:

Clutch slipping

Engine oil level too high

 

 

 

Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble

Brake dragging

Lubrication inadequate:

Engine oil level too low

Engine oil poor quality or incorrect

Gauge incorrect:

Water temperature gauge broken Water temperature sensor broken

Coolant incorrect: Coolant level too low Coolant deteriorated

Wrong coolant mixed ratio

Cooling system component incorrect:

Radiator fin damaged Radiator clogged Thermostat trouble Radiator cap trouble Radiator fan relay trouble Fan motor broken

Fan blade damaged Water pump not turning

Water pump impeller damaged

 

Over Cooling:

Gauge incorrect:

Water temperature gauge broken Water temperature sensor broken

Cooling system component incorrect:

Radiator fan relay trouble Thermostat trouble

 

Clutch Operation Faulty:

Clutch slipping:

Friction plate worn or warped Steel plate worn or warped Clutch spring broken or weak

Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn No clutch lever play

Clutch inner cable trouble

Clutch release mechanism trouble

Clutch not disengaging properly: Clutch plate warped or too rough Clutch spring compression uneven Engine oil deteriorated

Engine oil viscosity too high Engine oil level too high

Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft Clutch hub nut loose

Clutch hub spline damaged

Clutch friction plate installed wrong Clutch lever play excessive

Clutch release mechanism trouble

Gear Shifting Faulty:

Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t return:

Clutch not disengaging Shift fork bent or seized Gear stuck on the shaft

Gear positioning lever binding Shift return spring weak or broken Shift return spring pin loose

Shift mechanism arm spring broken Shift mechanism arm broken

Shift pawl broken

Jumps out of gear:

Shift fork ear worn, bent Gear groove worn

Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn Shift drum groove worn

Gear positioning lever spring weak or bro- ken

Shift fork guide pin worn

Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn

Overshifts:

Gear positioning lever spring weak or bro- ken

Shift mechanism arm spring broken

 

Abnormal Engine Noise:

Knocking:

IC igniter in ECU trouble

Carbon built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quality or incorrect

Spark plug incorrect Overheating

Piston slap:

Cylinder/piston clearance excessive Cylinder, piston worn

Connecting rod bent

Piston pin, piston pin hole worn

Valve noise:

Valve clearance incorrect Valve spring broken or weak Camshaft bearing worn Valve lifter worn

Other noise:

Connecting rod small end clearance exces- sive

Connecting rod big end clearance exces- sive

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck Piston ring groove worn

Piston seizure, damage Cylinder head gasket leaking

Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head con- nection

Crankshaft runout excessive

 

 

 

Engine mount loose Crankshaft bearing worn Primary gear worn or chipped

Camshaft chain tensioner trouble Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn Air suction valve damaged

Air switching valve damaged Alternator rotor loose

Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler overheating (KLEEN)

 

Abnormal Drive Train Noise:

Clutch noise:

Clutch housing/friction plate clearance ex- cessive

Clutch housing gear worn

Wrong installation of outside friction plate

Transmission noise:

Bearings worn

Transmission gear worn or chipped Metal chips jammed in gear teeth Engine oil insufficient

Drive line noise:

Drive chain adjusted improperly Drive chain worn

Rear and/or engine sprocket worn Chain lubrication insufficient

Rear wheel misaligned

 

Abnormal Frame Noise:

Front fork noise:

Oil insufficient or too thin Spring weak or broken

Rear shock absorber noise:

Shock absorber damaged

Disc brake noise:

Pad installed incorrectly Pad surface glazed Disc warped

Caliper trouble

Other noise:

Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. not properly mounted or tightened

 

Oil Pressure Warning Light Goes On:

Engine oil pump damaged Engine oil screen clogged Engine oil filter clogged Engine oil level too low Engine oil viscosity too low Camshaft bearing worn Crankshaft bearing worn

Oil pressure switch damaged Wiring faulty

Relief valve stuck open

O-ring at the oil passage in the crankcase damaged

 

Exhaust Smokes Excessively:

White smoke: Piston oil ring worn Cylinder worn

Valve oil seal damaged Valve guide worn Engine oil level too high

Black smoke:

Air cleaner clogged

Brown smoke:

Air cleaner duct loose

Air cleaner O-ring damaged

Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing

 

Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory:

Handlebar hard to turn: Cable routing incorrect Hose routing incorrect Wiring routing incorrect Steering stem nut too tight

Steering stem bearing damaged

Steering stem bearing lubrication inade- quate

Steering stem bent

Tire air pressure too low

Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates:

Tire worn

Swingarm pivot bearing worn Rim warped, or not balanced Wheel bearing worn Handlebar holder bolt loose Steering stem nut loose

Front, rear axle runout excessive Engine mounting bolt loose

Handlebar pulls to one side:

Frame bent

Wheel misalignment Swingarm bent or twisted

Swingarm pivot shaft runout excessive Steering maladjusted

Front fork bent

Right and left front fork oil level uneven

Shock absorption unsatisfactory:

(Too hard)

Front fork oil excessive

Front fork oil viscosity too high

Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard Tire air pressure too high

Front fork bent (Too soft)

Tire air pressure too low

Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking Front fork oil viscosity too low

 

 

 

Rear shock adjustment too soft

Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak Rear shock absorber oil leaking

 

Brake Doesn’t Hold: Air in the brake line Pad or disc worn

Brake fluid leakage Disc warped Contaminated pad Brake fluid deteriorated

Primary or secondary cup damaged in master cylinder

Master cylinder scratched inside

Battery Trouble:

Battery discharged:

Charge insufficient

Battery faulty (too low terminal voltage) Battery lead making poor contact

Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive wattage)

Ignition switch trouble Alternator trouble Wiring faulty

Regulator/rectifier trouble

Battery overcharged: Alternator trouble Regulator/rectifier trouble Battery faulty

 

 

MODEL APPLICATION

Year	Model	Beginning Frame No.
	EX650A6F	JKAEXEA1□6A000001 JKAEX650AAA000001
	EX650B6F	JKAEX650ABA000001

□:This digit in the frame number changes from one machine to another.

 

 

Part No.99924-1361-01 Printed in Japan