Valve Clearance Measuring Position 


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Valve Clearance Measuring Position



#2 Piston TDC at End of Compression Stroke → Inlet valve clearances of #2 piston, and Exhaust valve clearances of #2 piston

If the valve clearance is not with in the specified range, first record the clearance, and adjust it.

Valve Clearance Adjustment

• To change the valve clearance, remove the camshaft chain tensioner, camshafts and valve lifters. Replace the

shim with one of a different thickness.

 

NOTE

○Mark and record the valve lifter and shim locations so

they can be reinstalled in their original positions.

○If there is no clearance, select a shim which is several

sizes smaller and then measure the clearance.

• To select a new shim which brings the valve clearance within the specified range, refer to the Valve Clearance

Adjustment Charts.

• Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to the valve lifters.

• Install the camshafts. Be sure to time the camshafts prop-

erly (see Camshaft Installation in the Engine Top End

chapter).

CAUTION
Do not put shim stock under the shim. This may cause the shim to pop out at high rpm, causing ex- tensive engine damage. Do not grind the shim. This may cause it to fracture, causing extensive engine damage.

• Remeasure any valve clearance that was adjusted. Readjust if necessary.


 


 


VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT CHART INLET VALVE

1. Measure the clearance (when engine is cold).

2. Check present shim size.

3. Match clearance in vertical column with present shim size in horizontal column.

4. Install the shim specified where the lines intersect. This shim will give the proper clearance.

Example: Present shim is 2.95 mm.

Measured clearance is 0.45 mm.

Replace 2.95 mm shim with 3.20 mm shim.

5. Remeasure the valve clearance and readjust if necessary.


 


 


VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT CHART EXHAUST VALVE

1. Measure the clearance (when engine is cold).

2. Check present shim size.

3. Match clearance in vertical column with present shim size in horizontal column.

4. Install the shim specified where the lines intersect. This shim will give the proper clearance.

Example: Present shim is 2.95 mm.

Measured clearance is 0.47 mm.

Replace 2.95 mm shim with 3.15 mm shim.

5. Remeasure the valve clearance and readjust if necessary.


 


 

Clutch

Clutch Operation Inspection

• Pull the clutch lever just enough to take up the free play [A].

• Measure the gap between the lever and the lever holder.

If the gap is too wide, the clutch may not release fully. If

the gap is too narrow, the clutch may not engage fully. In either case, adjust it.

Clutch Lever Free Play

Standard: 2 ~ 3 mm (0.08 ~ 0.12 in.)

WARNING
To avoid a serious burn, never touch the engine or exhaust pipe during clutch adjustment.

• Turn the adjuster [A] so that 5 ~ 6 mm (0.20 ~ 0.24 in.) [B] of threads are visible.

 

• Remove the right center fairing (see Center Fairing Re- moval in the Frame chapter).

• Slide the dust cover [A] at the middle of the clutch cable

out of place.

• Loosen the locknut [B] at the middle of clutch cable.

WARNING
Be sure that the outer cable end at the clutch lever is fully seated in the adjuster at the clutch lever, or it could slip into place later, creating enough cable play to prevent clutch disengagement.
• Turn the adjusting nut [C] until the free play is correct.

 

 

• After the adjustment, tighten the locknut and start the en- gine and check that the clutch does not slip and that it

releases properly.

 

Wheels/Tires

Air Pressure Inspection

• Remove the air valve cap.

• Measure the tire air pressure with an air pressure gauge

[A] when the tires are cold (that is, when the motorcycle

has not been ridden more than a mile during the past 3 hours).

• Install the air valve cap.

Adjust the tire air pressure according to the specifications

if necessary.

Air Pressure (when Cold)

Front: Up to 180 kg (397 lb)

225 kPa (2.25 kgf/cm², 32 psi)

Rear: Up to 180 kg (397 lb)

250 kPa (2.50 kgf/cm², 36 psi)



 

Wheel/Tire Damage Inspection

• Remove any imbedded stones [A] or other foreign parti- cles [B] from tread.

• Visually inspect the tire for cracks and cuts, and replace

the tire if necessary. Swelling or high spots indicate inter-

nal damage, requiring tire replacement.

• Visually inspect the wheel for cracks, cuts and dents dam- age.

If any damage is found, replace the wheel if necessary.

 

Tire Tread Wear, Abnormal Wear Inspection

As the tire tread wears down, the tire becomes more sus- ceptible to puncture and failure. An accepted estimate is that 90% of all tire failures occur during the last 10% of tread life (90% worn). So it is false economy and unsafe to use the tires until they are bald.

• Measure the tread depth at the center of the tread with a

depth gauge [A]. Since the tire may wear unevenly, take

measurement at several places.

If any measurement is less than the service limit, replace the tire (see Tire Removal/Installation in the Wheels/Tires chapter).

 

Tread Depth Standard:

Front 4.3 mm (0.17 in.)

Rear 7.0 mm (0.28 in.) Service Limit:

Front 1 mm (0.04 in.)

(AT, CH, DE) 1.6 mm (0.06 in.)

Rear 2 mm (0.08 in.)

(Up to 130 km/h (80 mph))

Mm (0.12 in.)

WARNING
To ensure safe handling and stability, use only the recommended standard tires for replacement, in- flated to the standard pressure.

(Over 130 km/h (80 mph))

NOTE

○Most countries may have their own regulations a mini-

mum tire tread depth: be sure to follow them.

○Check and balance the wheel when a tire is replaced

with a new one.



 

Wheel Bearing Damage Inspection

• Raise the front wheel off the ground with jack (see Front Wheel Removal in the Wheels/Tires chapter).

• Turn the handlebar all the way to the right or left.

• Inspect the roughness of the front wheel bearing by push-

ing and pulling [A] the wheel.

• Spin [B] the front wheel lightly, and check for smoothly turn, roughness, binding or noise.

If roughness, binding or noise is found, remove the front wheel and inspect the wheel bearing (see Front Wheel Removal, Hub Bearing Inspection in the Wheels/Tires chapter).

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground with stand (see Rear Wheel Removal in the Wheels/Tires chapter).

• Inspect the roughness of the rear wheel bearing by push-

ing and pulling [A] the wheel.

• Spin [B] the rear wheel lightly, and check for smoothly turn, roughness, binding or noise.

If roughness, binding or noise is found, remove the rear wheel and inspect the wheel bearing (see Rear Wheel Re- moval, Hub Bearing Inspection in the Wheels/Tires chap- ter) and coupling (see Coupling Bearing Inspection in the Final Drive chapter).

 

Drive Train

Drive Chain Lubrication Condition Inspection

• If a special lubricant is not available, a heavy oil such as SAE 90 is preferred to a lighter oil because it will stay on

the chain longer and provide better lubrication.

CAUTION
The O-rings between the side plates seal in the lu- bricant between the pin and the bushing. To avoid damaging the O-rings and resultant loss of lubri- cant, observe the following rules. Use only kerosene or diesel oil for cleaning an O -ring drive chain. Any other cleaning solution such as gasoline or trichloroethylene will cause deterio- ration and swelling of the O-ring. Immediately blow the chain dry with compressed air after cleaning. Complete cleaning and drying the chain within 10 minutes.

• If the chain appears especially dirty, clean it before lubri- cation.


 


 

• Apply oil to the sides of the rollers so that oil will penetrate to the rollers and bushings. Apply the oil to the O-rings so

that the O-rings will be coated with oil.

• Wipe off any excess oil. Oil Applied Areas [A]

O-rings [B]

 

Drive Chain Slack Inspection

NOTE

○Check the slack with the motorcycle setting on its side-

stand.

○Clean the chain if it is dirty, and lubricate it if it appears

dry.

• Check the wheel alignment (see Wheel Alignment Inspec- tion).

• Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the chain

is tightest.

• Measure the vertical movement (chain slack) [A] midway between the sprockets.

If the chain slack exceeds the standard, adjust it.

Chain Slack

Standard: 30 ~ 40 mm (1.2 ~ 1.6 in.)

Drive Chain Slack Adjustment

• Remove the cotter pin [A], and loosen the axle nut [B].

• Loosen the both chain adjuster locknuts [C].

If the chain is too loose, turn in the left and right chain

adjuster nuts [D] evenly.

If the chain is too tight, turn out the left and right chain adjuster nuts evenly, and kick the wheel forward.

• Turn both chain adjuster nuts evenly until the drive chain

has the correct amount of slack. To keep the chain and

WARNING
Misalignment of the wheel will result in abnormal wear and may result in an unsafe riding condition.

wheel properly aligned, the value [E] on the left wheel alignment adjuster [F] should align with the same (left or right) edge [G] of inspection window on the swingarm that the right wheel alignment adjuster value aligns with.

• Tighten both chain adjuster locknuts securely.

• Tighten the axle nut.

Torque - Rear Axle Nut: 108 N·m (11.0 kgf·m, 80 ft·lb)

• Turn the wheel, measure the chain slack again at the tight- est position, and readjust if necessary.


 

 

• Insert a new cotter pin [A].

NOTE

○When inserting the cotter pin, if the slots in the nut do

not align with the cotter pin hole in the axle, tighten the

nut clockwise [B] up to next alignment.

○It should be within 30°.

○Loosen once and tighten again when the slot goes past

the nearest hole.

WARNING
If the rear axle nut is not securely tightened or the cotter pin is not installed, an unsafe riding condi- tion may result.
• Bend the cotter pin [A] over the nut [B].

 

 

Wheel Alignment Inspection

• Check that the value [A] on the left wheel alignment ad- juster [B] aligns with the same (left or right) edge [C] of

inspection window on the swingarm that the right wheel alignment adjuster value aligns with.

If they do not, adjust the chain slack and align the wheel alignment (see Drive Chain Slack Adjustment).

NOTE

○Wheel alignment can be also checked using the

straightedge or string method.

WARNING
Misalignment of the wheel will result in abnormal wear, and may result in an unsafe riding condition.



 

Drive Chain Wear Inspection

• Remove:

Chain Cover (see Swingarm Removal in the Suspension

chapter)

• Rotate the rear wheel to inspect the drive chain for dam- aged rollers, and loose pins and links.

If there is any irregularity, replace the drive chain. Lubricate the drive chain if it appears dry.

• Stretch the chain taut by hanging a 98 N (10 kg, 20 lb)

weight [A] on the chain.

• Measure the length of 20 links [B] on the straight part [C] of the chain from the pin center of the 1st pin to the pin center

of the 21st pin. Since the chain may wear unevenly, take measurements at several places.

If any measurements exceed the service limit, replace the chain. Also, replace the front and rear sprockets when the drive chain is replaced.

Drive Chain 20-link Length

Standard: 317.5 ~ 318.2 mm (12.50 ~ 12.53 in.)

WARNING
If the drive chain wear exceeds the service limit, re- place the chain or an unsafe riding condition may result. A chain that breaks or jumps off the sprock- ets could snag on the engine sprocket or lock the rear wheel, severely damaging the motorcycle and causing it to go out of control. For safely, use only the standard chain. It is an end- less type and should not be cut for installation.

Service Limit: 323 mm (12.7 in.)

Standard Chain

Make: ENUMA

Type: EK520MVXL1

Link: 114 links

Chain Guide Inspection

• Remove:

Swingarm (see Swingarm Removal in the Suspension

chapter)

• Visually inspect the chain guide [A].

Replace the chain guide if it shows any signs of abnormal

wear or damage.


 

 

Brake System

Brake Fluid Leak (Brake Hose and Pipe) Inspection

• Apply the brake lever or pedal and inspect the brake fluid leak from the brake hoses [A], fittings [B] and pipes [C].

If the brake fluid leaked from any position, inspect or re- place the problem part.

 


 

 

Brake Hose and Pipe Damage and Installation Condition Inspection

• Inspect the brake hoses, fittings and pipes for deteriora-

tion, cracks and signs of leakage.

○The high pressure inside the brake line can cause fluid to

leak [A] or the hose to burst if the line is not properly main-

tained. Bend and twist the rubber hose while examining it.

Replace the hose and pipe if any crack [B], bulge [C] or leakage is noticed.

Tighten any brake hose banjo bolts and brake pipe joint nuts.

Torque - Brake Hose Banjo Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

Brake Pipe Joint Nuts: 18 N·m (1.8 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb) (EX650B Models)

• Inspect the brake hose routing.

If any brake hose routing is incorrect, route the brake hose

according to Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.


 


 

Brake Operation Inspection

• Inspect the operation of the front and rear brake by run- ning the vehicle on the dry road.

WARNING
When inspecting by running the vehicle, note a surrounding traffic situation enough in the place of safety.

If the brake operation is insufficiency, inspect the brake system.

 

Brake Fluid Level Inspection

• Check that the brake fluid level in the front brake reservoir [A] is above the lower level line [B].

NOTE

○Hold the reservoir horizontal by turning the handlebar

when checking brake fluid level.

If the fluid level is lower than the lower level line, fill the reservoir to the upper level line [C] in the reservoir.

 


• Remove the seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chap- ter).

• Check that the brake fluid level in the rear brake reservoir

[A] is above the lower level line [B].

WARNING
Change the brake fluid in the brake line completely if the brake fluid must be refilled but the type and brand of the brake fluid that is already in the reser- voir are unidentified. After changing the fluid, use only the same type and brand of fluid thereafter.

If the fluid level is lower than the lower level line, fill the reservoir to the upper level line [C].

 



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