Vehicle inspections and vehicle history checks

Many of the motoring organisations offer a used car inspection service for a very reasonable fee. This involves a qualified engineer inspecting the car to make sure that there are no major faults or problems that are likely to cause trouble later. Be wary of a seller who refuses to let you have an inspection carried out – they probably have something to hide! If you decide not to have a vehicle inspection carried out, it's a good idea to take a knowledgeable friend with you to look at the car.

Even if you decide not to have a vehicle inspection carried out, it's very worthwhile considering a vehicle history check. Again, these checks on the background history of the car are offered by the major motoring organisations, and by several specialist companies. They usually include the following:

■ A check that the car has not been stolen.

■ A check that the car has not been written off by an insurance company at any point in its past.

■ A check to make sure that there is no finance outstanding on the car, and therefore that the car is not likely to be repossessed by a finance company.

■ A check on whether the registration number of the car has been changed at any point in the past.

■ A check on the recorded mileage, taken from registration document and MoT records.

■ A check on the VIN number and registration number against DVLAv records.

■ A check on the recorded model details for the car, which will reveal whether that GTI you're looking at is really a GL in disguise!

These checks are extremely worthwhile, and most reputable companies providing this service include in their price a warranty against any of the checks proving to be incorrect.

 

Task 4. Supply the missing 29 word parts.

Paperwork

If you’re buying a used car, especially from a dealer, ma__ __ 1) sure that it’s been recently serviced. If it ha__ __ 2) ’t been, a dealer will normally service it for you bef__ __ __ 3) you take delivery – make sure that this is included i__ 4) the price you’ve agreed to pay. Ask whether t__ __ 5) car has a ’full service history’. A full service history should inc__ __ __ __ 6) a fully stamped service record book, to show that the c__ __ 7) has been serviced in accordance with the manufacturer’s recomme__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ 8), and you may find that the previous owner has al__ __ 9) kept receipts for any work carried out. A car with a fu__ __ 10) service history is always worth more than an equivalent

c__ __ 11) without.

Similarly, always insist that the car is supplied wi__ __ 12) a ’new’ MoT certificate, and if it isn’t, negotiate a redu__ __ __ __ __ 13) in the price to compensate. Bear in mind that i__ 14) the MoT certificate is due to expire shortly after y__ __ 15) buy the car, you’ll have to pay for t__ __ 16) repairs necessary to correct any problems found during the te__ __ 17). A new MoT certificate provides you with peace of mind.

Ch__ __ __ 18) whether the car will be supplied with road tax, a__ __ 19) if not, budget for taxing it. You must buy a t__ __ 20) disc before you can use a car on the road.

A__ __ 21) to see the car’s ’V5’ Registration Document, and ch__ __ __ 22) that the details given on the document correspond to t__ __ 23) vehicle you’re thinking of buying. Check that the V__ __ 24) number, the colour, and the description of the car corre__ __ __ __ __ 25) to the car you’re looking at, and also ch__ __ __ 26) the number of ’previous keepers’. If the car has h__ __ 27) a large number of owners, ask yourself why this might b__ 28) – it could be that the car has had a troubled li__ __ 29)!

 

Task 4. Read the text and make questions to the text.

 

Prices

When you've decided on the particular model, or models, of car you're interested in buying, check the local papers, garage forecourts, and perhaps the specialist car sales papers and magazines to get an idea of the typical price such cars are selling for. Although there are plenty of websites and price guides that will give you some idea, the prices quoted are only approximate and can vary considerably from region to region. It may even be worth travelling away from your local area to get a better deal.

When comparing prices, make sure that you're comparing similar cars – for instance, a particular model of car may have had a 'facelift' or a new model may have been launched, but it may have the same registration letter as an example of the model that it superseded, which may explain a discrepancy in the prices of two apparently similar cars.

Prices should reflect the age, condition, recorded mileage and service history of a car – a low-mileage car with a full service history will normally be worth more than a similar car with higher mileage and/or an incomplete service history.

When viewing a car, check its condition carefully, and establish whether or not it's been serviced recently. If you notice any scratches, dents, or areas that have obviously been repaired, outside or inside the car, or if the car hasn't been serviced recently, negotiate a discount on the advertised price to allow for any work or servicing that needs to be done. Alternatively, make sure that the dealer is prepared to have the work done for you, at no extra charge, before agreeing to

buy the car.

When it comes down to the final deal, provided a car's price isn't too far from the guide price that you've established, it's actually worth what you're prepared to pay for it. You're the customer, so if you're happy with the deal, that's all that really matters in the end.

Task 5. Read the text and complete the Task 6.

 

Buying privately

If you've seen a private car advertised for sale, be aware that unscrupulous or 'amateur' trade sellers sometimes advertise cars as private sales. A trade seller is required by law to include a “T” or the word 'Trade' in any advertisements for cars he or she is selling, no matter how small the ads may be. Not that there's anything wrong with buying a car from a small-time trader – it can actually be a good thing, as buying from a registered trader actually means that you have certain rights that you won't have if you buy from a private seller; for instance, a car sold by a dealer must be of 'satisfactory' quality, which means, amongst other things, that it must be free from defects – except ones that the dealer has pointed out to you and those which should have been found during a vehicle inspection (but only if an inspection has been carried out).

If you decide that you'd like to view a car, and you phone to make an appointment to see it, one way to catch out a trader who's posing as a private seller is to ask aPout 'the car you've advertised for sale', rather than asking about the specific model advertised. If the seller asks you which car, be wary, as it's unlikely that a private seller will have more than one car for sale. Ask how long the seller has owned the car, and if they reply guardedly or say that they've only owned the car for a few months, the alarm bells should ring again. Take the initiative and ask if the seller is a private seller or a trader. If the seller is a trader, they've already broken the law by posing as a private seller in their advert, so their honesty is already questionable. Under such circumstances it would be advisable to walk away and cross that particular car off your list of 'possibles'.

Always ask to view the car at the seller's private address, and when you go to view it ask to see the 'V5' Registration Document, and check that the address appearing corresponds to the address at which you're viewing the car – if not, ask the seller why.

Ask to see the service receipts and MoT test certificates. This will help to establish that the car has been properly looked after, that it hasn't been stolen, and that the recorded mileage is genuine.

There are some genuine bargains to be had by buying privately, so don't be put off. Provided you do your homework and take all the obvious precautions, you'll usually manage to negotiate a better deal privately than you will with a dealer.

Task 6. There are at least 27 hidden words. Find them.

 

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Task 7. Retell the text in pairs.

 

Buying from a dealer

Though you'll generally pay more for a car bought from a dealer's forecourt than you will for a car purchased privately, you will at least have the peace of mind that you have certain rights when you buy from a dealer – if something goes wrong with the car shortly after you buy it, you have some chance of sorting it out if you've bought from a dealer, whereas if you buy privately you have no rights.

If you've been watching the adverts in your local area for a while, bear in mind that if a dealer has had a car sitting on his forecourt for a few weeks he'll be more willing to do a deal on it than he will on a car that has only just arrived.

Most dealers will advertise a used car for sale at a price that will allow them to be 'knocked down' by a potential buyer, so never instantly offer to pay the advertised price unless the car is a particularly rare or desirable model.

Check exactly what's included in the price. Is a warranty included (refer

to the advice on warranties earlier in this chapter), is road tax included, and will the car have a service and a new MoT certificate when you take delivery? If the answer to any of these questions is no, negotiate a discount on the price to allow for the costs involved. Be wary of a car being sold

Though you'll generally pay more for a car bought from a dealer's forecourt than you will for a car purchased privately, you will at least have the peace of mind that you have certain rights when you buy from a dealer – if something goes wrong with the car shortly after you buy it, you have some chance of sorting it out if you've bought from a dealer, whereas if you buy privately you have no rights.

If you've been watching the adverts in your local area for a while, bear in mind that if a dealer has had a car sitting on his forecourt for a few weeks he'll be more willing to do a deal on it than he will on a car that has only just arrived.

Most dealers will advertise a used car for sale at a price that will allow them to be 'knocked down' by a potential buyer, so never instantly offer to pay the advertised price unless the car is a particularly rare or desirable model.

Check exactly what's included in the price. Is a warranty included (refer to the advice on warranties earlier in this chapter), is road tax included, and will the car have a service and a new MoT certificate when you take delivery? If the answer to any of these questions is no, negotiate a discount on the price to allow for the costs involved. Be wary of a car being sold

without a new, or at least a recent, MoT – if you subsequently take the car for an MoT yourself and problems are discovered, you'll have to pay to get them fixed, and in the worst cases you could be faced with a hefty bill.

Before you go along to view a car, set yourself a price limit. Don't exceed your limit, and don't tell the dealer what your limit is! If you walk away from a deal because the dealer wants a little more than you can afford, ask him to think about it, and if the dealer has little interest from other potential buyers you may get a phone call a few days later asking if you're still interested in doing a deal!

 

Task 8. Translate the text without a dictionary.

 

Buying from an auction

Car auctions can be intimidating for the uninitiated, but there are some genuine bargains to be found, and most dealers buy a good proportion of their stock from auctions. Unless there are an unusual number of private bidders present, a car sold at auction will go for very close to its trade value, which will be significantly lower than its retail value. Auctions can also provide nasty shocks for the unwary, as it's possible for a seller to get a quick sale with little or no comeback.

There are various different types of auctions, and some are much safer for an inexperienced buyer than others. 'Manufacturer' and 'Fleet' sales probably provide the best chance of a good buy for a first-time buyer. These sales often include low-mileage cars, with warranted mileage and a full or part service history. A fleet car has usually been looked after and serviced in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations, and you may even find that the car is supplied with a full print-out detailing all the servicing that has been carried out.

'Fleet and Finance' sales often include a mix of fleet cars and repossessed vehicles being sold by finance houses. Such sales can provide bargains, especially if they include almost-new stock from a recently bankrupted dealer, but they can also include less desirable cars.

'General' sales comprise all kinds of cars, including those being sold by private individuals. Again, you'll find bargains in a general sale, but also a fair proportion of less desirable cars.

Other types of auctions include 'Part Exchange' sales, where you'll often find older cars which a franchised dealer doesn't want to put on his forecourt, and 'themed' sales, such as 'Late Year, Low Mileage', '4x4s', and 'Diesel Cars', in which most of the cars are usually being sold by dealers – be wary! There are also 'Classic Car' sales, which are generally aimed at the private buyer.

When buying at auction, it pays to visit an auction before the day on which you intend to buy, just to get a feel for how things work. Cars for sale will have a sticker on the windscreen showing the lot number, and will be lined up, often very close together, outside the auction halls. Just before each car is due to be sold, it will be started up and driven into the auction hall. The auctioneer will then give a brief description of the car and of any paperwork and history that comes with it, before bidding starts. Bidders in the hall will signal that they are bidding, usually by raising an arm, although seasoned traders may use much more subtle signals. When a bidder has reached his maximum bid, and wishes to stop bidding he will usually shake his head to signify that he doesn't wish to bid further. The auctioneer will invite any further bids, and if none are forthcoming the hammer will fall and the car is sold. The car will then be driven out of the auction hall to a secure compound. This whole process usually takes less than a minute.

Most reputable auction houses produce a guide for first-time auction goers, and some also have very good websites that enable you to view or download catalogues for forthcoming auctions.

Bear in mind that if you buy a car at an auction you'll normally have to pay a buyer's fee, in addition to the purchase price of the car. The buyer's fee can vary from under a hundred pounds to several hundred, depending on the selling price of the car. Also, check on the methods of payment accepted by the auction house – few will accept credit cards, and if you pay by cheque you won't be able to take the car away until the cheque has cleared. You'll also probably have to pay a cash deposit of a few hundred pounds immediately after placing a winning bid. Here are a few tips for buying at auction:

■ Set yourself a price limit, and don't bid above it.

■ Buy a catalogue for the auctions you're interested in, which will provide details of all the cars for sale, and will also give times for the sales.

■ Try to watch a number of cars going through the auction halls before you intend to bid. Each auctioneer has his own style, and it can take a while to 'tune in' to the language and phrases being used, and to recognise the signals for placing bids.

Take a good look at any car you're interested in before it reaches the auction hall, and try to be around when the car is started up, so that you can check for smoke or unusual noises.

■ If possible watch a few similar cars going through the auction, so that you know roughly how much a particular model is selling for on the day.

■ Check whether a car is being sold with paperwork, MoT, or tax, and check whether the mileage declared is warranted as genuine.

■ Some cars are sold with a guarantee of 'no major mechanical faults' while others are 'sold as seen'. In either case, you normally have an hour from the fall of the hammer to report any major problems and try to seek an amicable solution. With 'sold as seen' cars there is rarely anything you can do if you find a problem.

■ With reputable auction houses, the buyer's premium will usually include a warranty that the car has not been stolen, is not a write-off, and has no outstanding finance on it, which could mean that it might yet be seized by a finance company.

■ You assume ownership of the car from the moment the hammer falls on your winning bid, and therefore you should insure it as quickly as possible thereafter – if the car is damaged on the auction site after you've bought it, there's very little you can do unless you've insured it.

If you intend to drive your new car home after the auction, make sure that it's taxed, and that you either have a can of petrol with you or know where the nearest garage is – most cars are sold with very little petrol in the tank!

UNIT 8

SELLING A CAR

 

If you're going to sell your car, the first thing to do is to decide what price to ask. Various price guides are available, and some magazines provide price guides for second-hand cars. It also pays to look in the local papers, and on local garage forecourts, to see what prices are being asked for similar models to yours. The price you can expect depends on the car's age, condition, and mileage. Don't ask too much, but it's a good idea to ask for more than you're hoping to sell the car for – then there's some room for negotiation between you and the buyer.

Task 1. Words to remember:

 

1. audience ['ɔdɪən(t)s] (n.) – публика, зрители;

2. tidy ['taɪdɪ] (adj.) – аккуратный, опрятный, чистый.

Task 2. Read the text

Once you've decided on how much to ask for your car, you need to advertise it. Most local papers and magazines carry advertisements for a reasonable cost, but if you want to reach a more specific audience it's worth placing an advert in one of the specialist car sales papers or magazines.

Think about the wording of your advert. You need to give as much positive information as possible, without using too many words. Give details of the model and engine size, service history (where applicable), colour, age, mileage, condition, and any desirable options or equipment. If you've owned the car from new, it's always worth stating 'one owner'.

Bear in mind the points that the prospective buyer will be looking for. It goes without saying that the car should be clean and tidy, as first impressions are important. Any fluid leaks should be cured, and there's no point in trying to disguise any major bodywork or mechanical problems.

Before you invite any prospective buyers to view the car, remove any extras that you've fitted which you want to keep (such as in-car entertainment equipment), or at least tell any prospective purchasers that you intend to remove such equipment and that it's not included in the sale.

Make sure that the service documents, registration document, etc, are available for inspection. If the existing MoT test certificate has only a few months to run, have the car tested so that it has a new certificate if you can do so without too much expense – it will make the car much more saleable.

You're likely to sell your car more quickly and get a better price if you sell at the right time of year. It's always best to sell in the spring or summer rather than in the winter.

Don't allow the buyer to take the car away until you have their money, and it's a good idea to ask them to sign a piece of paper to say that they're happy to buy the car as viewed, just in case any problems develop later on. Give a receipt for the money paid.

 

Task 3. Make a car sale advert, using the information from the text

 

Task 4. Translate the following sentences into English:

 

Собираетесь продавать автомобиль, давать рекламное объявление в газету, модель двигателя, подтекание жидкости, продавать автомобиль, документ о регистрации, ожидаемая стоимость, первое впечатление, лучше продавать автомобиль весной или летом.

UNIT 9

LEARNING TO DRIVE

Learning to drive is a big step in most people's lives, and can be a ticket to independence. Sitting behind the wheel of a car for the first time can be daunting, even though you'll almost certainly have travelled as a passenger countless times, but plenty of practice and determination will pay off and will make it all the more rewarding when you pass your test and throw away the L-plates!

Task 1. Words to remember:

 

1. daunting ['dɔntɪŋ] (adj.) – обескураживающий, приводящий в растерянность, пугающий;

2. countless ['kauntləs] (adj.) – бесчисленный, многочисленный:

3. provisional [prə'vɪʒ(ə)n(ə)l] (adj.) – временный, условный;

4. roadworthy ['rəudwɜðɪ] (adj.) – исправный, готовый в путь, безопасный для езды по дорогам;

5. substitute ['sʌbstɪtjut] (n.) – замена, замещение;

6. proper ['prɔpə] (adj.) – правильный, должный, надлежащий;

7. to gain [geɪn] (v.) – получать, приобретать;

8. familiar [fə'mɪlɪə] (adj.) – хорошо знакомый;

9. shy [ʃaɪ] (adj.) – делающий что-либо с неохотой, нерешительный;

10. whilst [waɪlst] – пока;

11. hand in hand – рука об руку

12. perception [pə'sepʃ(ə)n] (n.) – восприятие, ощущение

13. rural ['ruər(ə)l] (adj.) – деревенский, сельский

14. carriageway ['kærɪʤweɪ] (n.) – полоса (автострады), проезжая часть дороги;

15. enroll [ɪn'rəul] (v.) – записывать, вносить в список, регистрировать.

 

Task 2. Retell the text in pairs. It will take you 5 minutes to read the text.

The law for learners

Before you can learn to drive, however, there are a few essential things that you need to take care of. In the UK, the law states that to drive a car on public roads as a learner driver, you must:

■ Be at least 17 years old (except if you're receiving the highest rate of mobility allowance, in which case you can start learning at 16)

■ Hold a provisional driving licence

■ Be covered by a suitable car insurance policy

■ Be supervised by a driver who is at least 21 years old, and has held a full driving licence for at least three years

■ Ensure that the car you're driving is roadworthy, taxed, and has a current MoT certificate (if it's over three years old)

■ Display L-plates on the front and rear of the car

■ Not drive on motorways

 

Task 3. Please insert the 35 words correctly.(Noun, Used as a noun)

better • call • confidence • confidence • cost • current • driving • experience • friend • friend • friend • friend • ideal • instructor • investment • lesson • lesson • member • member • mile • number • option • practice • practice • practice • relative • relative • road • situation • situation • substitute • substitute • test • traffic • wise

 

Driving lessons

You may have a __________________ 1) of your family or a __________________ 2) who’s willing to supervise you when you’re learning to drive, but there’s no ____________________ 3) for proper __________________ 4) with an Approved Driving Instructor (ADI). Although, from a _________________ 5) point of view, sticking with a __________________ 6) or family __________________ 7) may seem an attractive __________________ 8), they’re unlikely to have the valuable ____________________ 9) of teaching that an ADI has to _________________ 10) on and, more importantly, they may never have experienced the __________________ 11) driving test themselves.

The __________________ 12) approach to learning to drive is to start out with an ____________________ 13), then once they’re happy that you’ve gained enough ____________________ 14) to master the basics, you can think about having extra ___________________ 15) with a ___________________ 16) or __________________ 17) sitting alongside you. If you do decide to learn with a ___________________ 18) or __________________ 19), it’s a very _________________ 20) ____________________ 21) to have at least a few __________________ 22) with an ADI before your test, just to make sure that you’re aware of what’s involved, and that you’re familiar with what the examiner’s going to ask you to do during the _________________ 23).

There’s no ____________________ 24) for ___________________ 25) when preparing to take the __________________ 26) test, and the more __________________ 27) you cover the __________________ 28). Try to ___________________ 29) on as many different types of _________________ 30) as possible, and once your ____________________ 31) has built up don’t be shy of driving in busy __________________ 32) – the greater the __________________ 33) of different ____________________ 34) you’ve experienced, the less likely you are to be caught out by an unfamiliar ____________________ 35) during your test.

 

Task 4. Supply the missing 19 word parts.

Choosing an instructor

Approved Driving Instructors have to be registered with the Driving Standards Agency (DSA) and b__ 1) law they have to have an ADI qualification – which invo__ __ __ __ 2) taking a rigorous driving test and regular assessments – to b__ 3) able to accept money in return for providing dri__ __ __ __ 4) lessons. ADIs are graded, and need to have achieved a__ 5) least Grade 4 to be considered competent, whilst Grade 5 is good a__ __ 6) Grade 6 is a very high standard. Note that trainee driving Instructors a__ __ 7) allowed to give driving lessons before they qualify a__ 8) ADIs – trainee instructors normally display a triangular pink certificate on th__ __ __ 9) car’s windscreen, whilst qualified ADIs usually display a hexagonal gr__ __ __ 10) certificate.

Don’t overlook the fact that you al__ __ 11) need to consider whether or not you’re go__ __ __ 12) to be able to get along with your instr__ __ __ __ __ 13) – whilst you don’t have to be best fri__ __ __ __ 14), having the best-qualified instructor in the country isn__ __ 15) going to help if you really don’t li__ __ 16) each other! Word of mouth is a good guide t__ 17) an instructor’s record, and a recommendation from a relative o__ 18) friend who’s

recently learnt to drive is a go__ __ 19) starting point.

Task 5. Read the text

The driving test

The driving test, which you must pass before you can gain a full licence and drive solo, has two parts – a theory part and a practical part. You must pass the theory test before you can take the practical test, Trainee driving instructors may display a pink certificate (left),

and you must take the while qualified instructors display a green certificate (right)

practical test within two years of passing the theory test. Although there are two separate parts to the test, and both must be passed before you qualify for a full licence, the two parts go hand in hand, and there's no need to pass the theory test before you learn to drive – in fact, the points covered by the theory test will make much more sense if you're already learning to drive, and have some experience on the road.

The theory test is split into two parts, and includes a multiple-choice test which takes around 40 minutes using a touch-screen, and a hazard perception test which takes around half an hour and is based on video clips.

The practical test lasts around 40 minutes, and involves driving with an examiner in the passenger seat, who will instruct you on what route to take and will assess your driving. During the test the examiner will check your eyesight by asking you to read a car number plate, and will ask you to perform several set manoeuvres. You'll also be asked questions about car safety checks.

Further details of the driving test can be obtained from the Driving Standards Agency (DSA).

 

Task 6. Answer the questions.

 

1. What parts does the driving test consist of?

2. What parts does the theoretical test consists of?

 

Task 7. Please insert the correct letter. 27 mal (p oder b)

The Pass Plus scheme

The __ass 1) __lus 2) scheme is designed to hel__ 3) newly qualified drivers im__rove 4) their skills, and is su____orted 5) __y 6) the DSA and __y 7) insurers, who may offer chea__er 8) insurance to drivers who have taken the __ass 9) __lus 10) course. Anyone who has a full licence can take __art 11) in the scheme.

The course consists of six training sessions designed to follow on from the standard driving test. Each session lasts for a__out 12) an hour, and the sessions cover driving:

· In town

· On rural roads

· In all weathers

· At night

· On dual carriageways

· On motorways

There’s no test to take during the course, __ut 13) drivers are continually assessed during each session and, assuming that they successfully com__lete 14) each of the six sessions, a certificate is awarded at the end of the course.

Enrolling in the __ass 15) __lus 16) scheme is well worth considering, as it will hel__ 17) you __ecome 18) a safer and __etter 19) driver, and you’ll gain extra driving ex__erience 20) to hel__ 21) you deal with situations you may never have come across whilst learning to drive. You could also save more than the cost of the course on your insurance __remium 22). The DSA will __e 23) a__le 24) to __rovide 25) a list of insurers who give discounts to holders of __ass 26) __lus 27) certificates.

 

Task 8. Discuss the question.

 

What differences in the Russian legislation, concerning the reception of a driving licence, have you found?

Task 9. Try to answer questions of the theoretical test for licence reception in the UK (Mark one answer).

 

1. You are following a vehicle on a wet road. You should leave a time gap of at least.

a) One second

b) Two seconds

c) Three seconds

d) Four seconds

2. You are in a one-way street and want to turn right. You should position yourself

a) In the right-hand lane

b) In the left-hand lane

c) In either lane, depending on the traffic

d) Just left of the centre line

3. Before you make a U-turn in the road, you should

a) Give an arm signal as well as using your indicators

b) Signal so that other drivers can slow down for you

c) Look over your shoulder for a final check

d) Select a higher gear than normal

4. Why are vehicles fitted with rear fog lights?

a) To be seen when driving at high speed

b) To use if broken down in a dangerous position

c) To make them more visible in thick fog

d) To warn drivers following closely to drop back

5. In which of these situations should you avoid overtaking?

a) Just after a bend

b) In a one-way street

c) On a 30 mph road

d) Approaching a dip in the road

6. Your mobile phone rings while you are travelling. You should

a) Stop immediately

b) Answer it immediately

c) Pull up in a suitable place

d) Pull up at the nearest curb

7. At which type of crossing are cyclists allowed to ride across with pedestrians?

a) Toucan

b) Puffin

c) Pelican

d) Zebra

8. Which of the following may cause loss of concentration on a long journey? (Mark four answers).

a) Loud music

b) Arguing with a passenger

c) Using a mobile phone

d) Putting in a cassette tape

e) Stopping to regularly to rest

f) Pulling up to tune the radio

9. You are approaching a pelican crossing. The amber light is flashing. You must

a) Give way to pedestrians who are crossing

b) Encourage pedestrians to cross

c) Not move until the green light appears

d) Stop even if the crossing is clear

 

10. 'Tailgating' means

a) Using the rear door of a hatchback car

b) Reversing into a parking space

c) Following another vehicle too closely

d) Driving with rear fog lights on

11. At a pelican crossing the flashing amber light means you MUST

a) Stop and wait for the green light

b) Stop and wait for the red light

c) Give way to pedestrians waiting to cross

d) Give way to pedestrians already on the crossing

12. You are driving along a country road. A horse and rider are approaching. What should you do? (Mark two answers)

a) Increase your speed

b) Sound your horn

c) Flash your headlights

d) Drive slowly past

e) Give plenty of room

f) Rev your engine

13. You stop for pedestrians waiting to cross at a zebra crossing. They do not start to cross. What should you do?

a) Be patient and wait

b) Sound your horn

c) Carry on

d) Wave then to cross

14. What is the most likely cause of high fuel consumption?

a) Poor steering control

b) Accelerating around bends

c) Staying in high gears

d) Harsh braking and accelerating

15. Which TWO are badly affected if the tyres are under-inflated? (Mark two answers).

a) Braking

b) Steering

c) Changing gear

d) Parking

16. The fluid level in your battery is low. What should you top it up with?

a) Battery acid

b) Distilled water

c) Engine oil

d) Engine coolant

17. You must NOT sound your horn

a) Between 10 pm and 6 am in a built-up area

b) At any time in a built-up area

c) Between 11.30 pm and 7 am in a built-up area

d) Between 11.30 pm and 6 am on any road

18. Catalytic converters are fitted to make the

a) Engines produce more power

b) Exhaust systems easier to replace

c) Engines run quietly

d) Exhaust fumes cleaner

19. What percentage of all emissions does road transport account for?

a) 10%

b) 20%

c) 30%

d) 40%

20. Before starting a journey it is wise to plan your route. How can you do this?

a) Look at a map

b) Contact your local garage

c) Look in your vehicle handbook

d) Check your vehicle registration document

UNIT 10

PAPERWORK

Once you have a Driving Licence, if you have the use of your own car there's additional paperwork that you'll need to obtain and keep safe.

 

Task 1. Words to remember:

 

1. to lay down – устанавливать, утверждать, составить;

2. excise duty – акцизный налог.

Task 2. Read the text and answer the questions.

As a driver, by law you must have:

■ A Driving Licence.

■ A valid Certificate of Insurance.

If you own a car, by law you must have for the car:

■ A Vehicle Registration Document.

■ A tax disc.

■ An MoT certificate (if the car is more than three years old).

You must keep all this paperwork safe, and you may be asked to produce certain paperwork if you're involved in an accident, or if the police stop you for any reason. It's a good idea to carry your driving licence with you at all times, and you must display a valid tax disc on the car at all times, but the other paperwork is best kept safely at home – don't be tempted to keep it in your car, as this will provide all that a car thief needs for an easy life, and if your car is involved in an accident or a fire the paperwork may be lost.

 

Questions:

1. What documents should you take with you to a car’s saloon when driving?

2. Give an analogy with the rules existing in Russia.

 

Task 3. Read the text and make questions to the text.

Driving Licence

If you're planning to learn to drive, you'll first need to obtain a Provisional Driving Licence. Driving Licences are issued by the Driver and Vehicle Licensing

Agency (DVLA), and you'll need to apply for a provisional licence using form D1, which is available from most post offices. Once you've signed your provisional licence you're entitled to drive on a public road, as long as you're supervised by a driver sitting in the car with you at all times who holds a full licence. It's illegal to drive 'solo' on a provisional licence. Once you've passed both the theory and practical parts of the driving test, you can apply for a full driving licence, and you're then legally able to drive on your own, unsupervised.

Bear in mind that you can learn to drive using a car with a manual or an

automatic gearbox, but if you learn and take your practical test in an automatic car your full licence will only allow you to drive an automatic, and you won't legally be able to drive a car with a manual gearbox. If you learn to drive in a car with a manual gearbox you'll be able to drive both manual and automatic cars once you've passed your test.

Insurance certificate. When you insure your car, you'll be issued with a Certificate of Insurance to prove that you're insured. The details shown on the certificate vary depending on the insurance company that issued it, but as a minimum it will show your name and address, the car's registration number, the date of issue of the certificate and the date it expires, along with details of the insurance company, and details of the type of insurance policy you have.

Always keep your insurance certificate in a safe place, as it's an important legal document and you'll need it when you tax your car. You may also need to refer to it if you're unfortunate enough to be involved in an accident.

When your insurance company issues a Certificate of Insurance you'll usually also receive a Policy Schedule, which lays down the terms of the insurance, and explains what's covered by the policy and what isn't. Make sure that you keep this safe too, as you'll almost certainly need to refer to it if you need to make a claim.

 

Task 4. Read the text and answer the questions.

 

Vehicle Registration Document (“V5”)

By law, every vehicle must have a Vehicle Registration Document, and you should keep it safe, as you'll need it if you sell or scrap the car, and you may need it to buy a tax disc.

The Registration Document – known as a 'V5' – shows the registered keeper of the vehicle. The keeper